Trousers have been on my ‘take make’ list for a while and I had been putting off making them for a while too. A few weeks ago, I decided to bite the bullet and go for it. My pattern of choice was the Cigarette Pant pattern from the Gertie Sews Vintage Casual book.
As usual, before making a garment, I tend to research it online to see if there are any fitting issues and tips for construction. With this pattern, I only managed to find 3 bloggers who had reviewed them – there were a lot of reviews for the Butterick 5895’s, which were designed by Gertie…but these were different form the ones in the book so I didn’t really want to take note of those fitting issues as they were not the same trousers!
Within the pattern instructions, Gertie actually writes about the model who is wearing the cigarette pants in the picture. She was petite so Gertie took a small amount of length from the pattern, from above the knee and above the crotch. As I’m quite small, I decided to do this also. I traced the size 8 but graded out to a 10 on the hips.
Making the trousers (pants!) was surprisingly quick and straight forward. My common sense had to take over during the pocket construction as the picture in the book didn’t reflect the actual instruction so I just did what I though was correct – and it worked! I’m sure the pictured pattern pieces are the wrong way! The seam allowances were trimmed and overlocked as normal. I didn’t attach the waist facing until I had tried them on and solved a couple of fitting issues. From the thigh down, I could have fit both my legs into one leg so I needed to take each leg in quite a bit! I also found that the back seam was pulling quite a lot where the zip was inserted so I made the hip seam allowance smaller and made the back darts smaller to allow more room for my bum. :-0
I love jazzy trousers and these are just perfect for me! The final fit wasn’t perfect but was much better than when they were first sewn up. These are a little baggy on the front but are still a little too tight across the back. I don’t think I could squat quickly in these trousers as they would probably split! This cotton is just that; cotton with no stretch – something to bear in mind when using stretch fabrics in the future.
With the initial fitting issues in mind, I altered the paper pattern accordingly. The book actually gives some great tips for certain fitting issues. So in addition to changing the leg width & back darts, I also widened the back leg pattern at the hips, cut a ‘wedge’ from the front leg crotch and lowered the gusset slightly.
The next material I used was a floral stretch denim. I made sure to use a slightly larger seam allowance when sewing these to allow for the stretch when wearing. With this pair, I also moved the zip to the side in the hope that the fit would be better on my bum. These were constructed in an afternoon ; so quick to say how scared I was of making trousers pre-constrcution! Before I attached the facing, I was so pleased with the fit as they seemed 100 times better than the first pair! I was so happy that I had managed to solve a couple of fitting issues. 🙂
However…I then used the wrong interfacing on the facing piece for the waist. 😦 I didn’t really think about it until I tried them on once they had been completed. The interfacing I used was the thick type so this eliminated all of the stretch at the waist. In hindsight, I could have gone without using interfacing at all as the denim was stable enough to start with. Lesson learnt! These are now known as my standing up trousers as they are quite tight on my tummy if I sit down. 😀
I would love to know if anyone else has tried these Cigarette Pants! Did you have any fitting issues? Would you make them again? Are there any other trouser/pant patterns you can recommend? I have also got the Ultimate Trouser pattern so I would like to have a go at those ones too!
threads + bobbins 
Well done fitting the 2nd pair, and I love the fabric on them too. A little bit crazy but not too much! I think in the long run you might be glad of the extra strength in the waist band as they can stretch out, especially with a stretch cotton.
I’ve made skinny bitch curvy chicks trousers – they’re for someone around 5’1″ ish – the fit was great without altering, I’ve just grown out of them, but not for long, hopefully!! I made them in a warm moleskin. I’ve also tried simplicity’s amazing fit slim trousers which give loads of help fitting. I made them 2 years ago in a black cotton sateen and wear them loads – mainly for golf. I sometimes take a wedge out of the back seam or unpick it depending on how the waistline is behaving!! 😀
Very cute Cigarette Pants. The second pair look to be a great fit and I like the side zip much better and I am sure you will too in the long run. Back zipper should only go into skirts — in my humble opinion. I love the fabric choice for both pairs. Especially the second pair you made.
Hi! Great trousers. I made these from the book and love them. However I had to make a lot of fitting alterations. I made 3 muslins. I used Gertie’s instructions in the book and with a lot of time and patience they were great. Check them out here https://coolarama.wordpress.com/2015/08/25/cigarette-pants-to-go-with-my-grainline-studio-morris-blazer/ Now I’ve got a pattern that fits I’ll be making them again. I’m going to try Vouge 9155 view A next. Please excuse my blog it’s a bit rubbish!
OMG so envious that you have made yourself trousers! It is still on my list to do and I have been wanting to make a pair of Junipers (Colette) for ages. Your second pair looks like it is a great fit and great fabric choices too.
It’s great that you had the patience to get the fit right with the second pair as they’re a good shape on you. I agree about the side zip too, I loathe back zips on trousers.
They look great on you, and I love the prints. don’t know much on how to help with the fitting issues. usually you just need to make the pattern a little bigger or smaller in the areas that do not fit.
But they look great on you, anyway. If you are looking for some really funky fab fabrics, just type in your URL box: http://www.spoonflower.com/profiles/aer_raa = and you can see some funky prints. Love the cig pants, aer raa
Well done on persevering with these and love your choice of fabrics. I must get back on the trouser-making, I made two pairs (one far too small) but just ran out of steam!
Both pairs look great, and I especially love the fabric from the second pair. Are they comfy enough to wear much or are they strictly reserved for standing up occasions?! Very impressed at all of your pattern alterations again!